Serra dos Orgãos

Serra dos Orgãos (Organ Mountains) National Park is just a one-hour drive from Rio. Here you can find the largest concentration of multi-pitch climbs on pristine granite.

Created in 1939, the park is shaped by a lush Atlantic rainforest, the Mata Atlantica. The rainforest here is a diversified ecosystem with
over 264 species of birds and 58 species of mammals, many of which are only found in this region.

There are more than ten granitic peaks of at least 6500 feet in altitude, and about six other peaks higher than 5000 feet. The tallest mountain is Pedra do Sino at 2268m (7424 ft).
The most famous rock formation in the park is the well-known Dedo De Deus - 1675m (Finger of God – 5528 feet) that appears in the center of the state flag.

Dedo de Deus is also famous because it marked the beginning of the mountaineering era in Brazil in 1912. Climbers who first reached the summit had to be quite creative to overcome challenging obstacles. They built a bamboo ladder, climbed on each other, and used homemade pitons. Consequently, Dedo de Deus became the symbol of mountaineering in Brazil.
The route Chamine Maria Cebola seems to be the most popular route to the summit. Most climbers don’t realize that such an easy route (5.6-5.7) can turn into a real epic if you are not cautious, due to the changeable weather and route finding. The approach can be a significant warm-up for the climb, steep and in the most luscious tropical rainforest.
The climb follows a series of steep fascinating exposed ramps and chimneys and the views from the top can be breathtaking.
Another monumental buttress located right next to Dedo de Deus is Escalavrado 1420m (2376 feet). You can scramble up the ridge crest on a fourth-class route or climb Infinita Highway route 5.10 A1 (5.11c) 720m, 15 pitches long.

More facts about the park:

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